Warning lights
ABS light: antilock brake warning
The yellow "ABS" light means the antilock part of your brakes is switched off. The ordinary brakes still work; what you lose is the protection against locked wheels in a hard stop.
Can I keep driving with this light on?
ABS light: abs light alone
Moderate: fix within weeks
Normal braking works, but the wheels can lock in a hard stop. Drive carefully and book a repair.
- Leave more distance and brake early.
- Check brake fluid level.
- Have the ABS codes read: wheel speed sensors and their wiring are the usual cause.
49 CFR 571.135 S5.5 and 571.101 Table 1: a separate antilock malfunction indicator is yellow; the brake system warning is red. Your owner's manual prevails for your car.
The antilock brake telltale is defined by the federal brake standard for light vehicles, FMVSS 135, and by the table of symbols and colors in FMVSS 101: where a vehicle has a separate indicator for an antilock malfunction, it is yellow, while the general brake system warning is red. A steady yellow ABS light on its own means the antilock system has detected a fault and turned itself off. Your brakes work as they would on a car without ABS: the pedal pushes the pads as usual, but in an emergency stop or on a slippery road the wheels can lock, and a locked front wheel cannot steer. Drive with more distance and have it checked soon. If the red "BRAKE" light comes on at the same time, the system may have a hydraulic or brake force distribution problem as well, and you should stop when safe and not drive on until it is inspected. The most frequent cause is a wheel speed sensor.
Shop labor rate: a starting estimate for your state
Starting estimate, United States (average)
$110/h
| Average technician wage | $27.13/h |
| National average wage | $27.13/h |
| Multiplier assumed | × 4 |
BLS OEWS, May 2025. The multiplier is our assumption, not a measured rate: shops post their own rates, and dealers often charge more.
Codes, rules and labor data checked by Radif Partners · Editorial policy · Method and sources
Yellow alone, or yellow with red
The two lights are separate because they mean different things. Yellow ABS alone: antilock off, normal brakes fine. Red BRAKE alone: the parking brake is on, the fluid is low, or there is a fault in the main system. Both together: the computer that shares out braking force between the front and rear axles may also be off, which can make the rear wheels lock early. That is why the check at the top of this page gives a stop recommendation for the combination.
Common causes
- A wheel speed sensor, or its wiring, damaged by corrosion, debris or brake work.
- A cracked or rusted tone ring on the axle or hub, which the sensor reads.
- A blown fuse or relay for the ABS pump.
- Low system voltage from a weak battery, which can set ABS codes at start-up.
- Less often, the ABS module or its hydraulic unit.
Reading the ABS code
ABS codes are stored by the brake module, often with the letter C for chassis, and a basic engine reader will not see them. The code lookup explains the structure of a C code, but its meaning is usually specific to the maker, so a shop with a scanner that reads the ABS module is the practical route. Many codes name the wheel, which saves time.
The cost of the usual fixes
A sensor at one wheel is often under an hour of labor; a hub with an integrated sensor takes longer. The rate tool on this page gives the starting labor rate for your state, built from BLS technician wages as explained on the method page. A module or hydraulic unit costs far more, which is one reason to rule out sensors, wiring and fuses first. Related: the traction control light, which often comes on with ABS.